Wat Saket: The Golden Mount of Bangkok
Wat Saket Ratcha Wora Maha Wihan, commonly known as the Golden Mount, is one of Bangkok’s most distinctive and beloved temples. Unlike the flat, sprawling temple complexes that characterise most of the city, Wat Saket is built on an artificial hill that rises 80 metres above the surrounding old Bangkok neighbourhood. The golden chedi at its summit is visible from kilometres away and has been a landmark since the reign of King Rama III. For visitors, it offers not only spiritual significance but also one of the best free views of Bangkok’s old city.
The History: A Hill That Would Not Stay Up
The story of the Golden Mount is one of engineering failure turned triumph. King Rama III originally commissioned a massive chedi to be built on this site in the early 19th century, but the soft Bangkok soil could not support the weight, and the structure collapsed during construction. The rubble was left in place, and over decades, a hill of earth and bricks formed, covered naturally by vegetation. King Rama IV later built a smaller chedi on top of the hill, and King Rama V added the golden chedi that stands today, enshrining a relic of the Buddha brought from India. The 344-step concrete staircase that spirals around the hill was added in the 20th century to make the summit accessible to pilgrims.
The Climb and the View
The climb to the top is an experience in itself. The staircase winds upward through lush tropical greenery, and at intervals, visitors can ring ceremonial bells for good fortune. The air is cooler here than at street level, and the sounds of the city fade as you ascend. At the summit, a platform surrounds the golden chedi, offering 360-degree views of Bangkok. You can see the Grand Palace, Wat Arun, the Chao Phraya River, and the sprawling modern skyline in the distance. The view is particularly stunning at sunset, when the golden chedi glows and the city takes on a warm, honeyed light.
Practical Tips for Visitors
- Entrance fee: 100 THB ($3 USD) for the Golden Mount climb. The temple grounds at the base are free to enter.
- Getting there: Walk from MRT Sam Yot station (10 minutes) or take a taxi to Wat Saket. It is a 15-minute walk from Khao San Road.
- Best time to visit: Late afternoon, around 4:00-5:00 PM, to catch the sunset from the summit. Arrive before 5:00 PM as the gates close at 5:30 PM.
- Dress code: Shoulders and knees should be covered as this is an active temple. Sarongs are available to borrow at the entrance.
- Annual event: During the Loy Krathong festival in November, the temple hosts a week-long temple fair with food stalls, carnival rides, and a candlelit procession up the mount. It is one of Bangkok’s most magical nights.
At the base of the Golden Mount, the temple grounds are worth exploring in their own right. The ubosot (ordination hall) contains a beautiful Buddha image and murals depicting the life of the Buddha. The grounds are filled with bodhi trees, statues, and small shrines where locals come to make merit and pray. There is a columbarium where the ashes of the deceased are stored in niches, a common feature in Thai temples that serves both a religious and practical purpose. Walk slowly and take in the peaceful atmosphere, which is a stark contrast to the busy streets just outside.
The Golden Mount is particularly significant during the Loy Krathong festival, usually in November. A grand temple fair takes over the surrounding streets for a week, with food stalls, carnival games, live music, and a candlelit procession up the 344 steps to the summit. The chedi is wrapped in red cloth, and the entire hill is illuminated with fairy lights. This is one of Bangkok’s most beloved community events, and if your visit coincides with the festival, climbing the mount at night among thousands of candle-bearing devotees is an unforgettable experience.
Wat Saket may not have the grandeur of the Grand Palace or the fame of Wat Arun, but it offers something they cannot: a sense of tranquillity and a genuine connection to Bangkok’s history. The climb, the bells, the view, and the golden chedi combine to create an experience that is both spiritual and sensory. For those willing to leave the tourist trail and climb a few hundred steps, the Golden Mount rewards with one of the most authentic and memorable temple experiences in Bangkok.
