Koh Phi Phi: Tropical Paradise Beyond the Movies

The Phi Phi Islands, located in the Andaman Sea about 45 kilometres southeast of Phuket, are among the most famous and photogenic islands in the world. The archipelago consists of six islands, with Koh Phi Phi Don being the only inhabited one and the smaller Koh Phi Phi Leh famous for Maya Bay, the stunning cove featured in the film The Beach. Despite the massive influx of tourists over the past two decades, the Phi Phi Islands remain breathtakingly beautiful, and with some planning and local knowledge, you can still find your own piece of paradise here.

Maya Bay: Restoration and Reopening

Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Leh was closed to visitors from June 2018 to January 2022 to allow the ecosystem, particularly the blacktip reef sharks that use the bay as a nursery, to recover from years of over-tourism. The bay has now reopened with strict regulations: a daily visitor cap, no swimming in the inner bay, and boats must enter from the opposite side of the island. The result is a Bay that feels wild again. The coral is recovering, sharks are returning, and the water is clearer than it has been in decades. Visiting Maya Bay today is a more respectful, more sustainable experience, and it is worth the extra effort.

Things to Do on Koh Phi Phi

Beyond Maya Bay, the islands offer world-class snorkelling and diving. Bamboo Island, a 30-minute boat ride from Phi Phi Don, has some of the healthiest coral reefs in the area and a gorgeous beach with no development. Monkey Beach on Phi Phi Don is famous for its resident macaques, though visitors should keep their distance as the monkeys can be aggressive. The viewpoint hike on Phi Phi Don, a steep 20-minute climb from the village, offers a panoramic vista of the twin bays that is one of the most iconic images of Thailand. For divers, sites like Bida Nai and Bida Nok offer walls of coral, leopard sharks, and occasional whale shark sightings.

Practical Tips for Visitors

Getting there: Speedboat or ferry from Phuket (1-2 hours) or Krabi (1.5 hours). Speedboats cost 800-1,500 THB round trip; ferries 400-600 THB one way.
Best time to visit: November to April for calm seas and clear water. May to October brings monsoon weather and rough seas that can cancel boat tours.
Accommodation: Budget hostels from 400 THB, mid-range from 1,500 THB, luxury from 5,000 THB. Book well in advance for peak season (December-February).
Maya Bay rules: Time-limited visits (about 1 hour), no swimming in the inner bay, and visitor numbers are capped. Book a tour that includes Maya Bay early in the morning for the best experience.
What to bring: Reef-safe sunscreen, a dry bag for boat trips, snorkelling gear, and cash (limited ATMs on the island).

The nightlife on Koh Phi Phi Don is legendary and, depending on your taste, either a highlight or a reason to find a quiet beach elsewhere. The main village, centred around the narrow strip of land connecting the two bays, transforms each evening into a beach party scene with fire shows, bucket drinks, and DJs. For those seeking tranquillity, the eastern side of the island and the remote resorts accessible only by boat offer a completely different experience. Long Beach, a 20-minute walk or 5-minute boat ride from the village, has a quieter beach and some of the best snorkelling right offshore.

Diving is one of the best activities on Phi Phi, and the islands are an excellent place to get certified. Several dive schools offer Open Water courses for around 14,000-17,000 THB ($400-$485 USD), including all equipment, instruction, and four open-water dives. The dive sites around Phi Phi are suitable for beginners through advanced divers, with depths ranging from 5 to 30 metres. Look for dive schools with small group sizes and PADI or SSI certification. The best diving months are from November to April when visibility can reach 30 metres.

Koh Phi Phi is a place of contradictions: it can be overwhelmingly crowded in the village and blissfully empty on a remote beach; the parties are loud and the mornings are serene. The key to enjoying Phi Phi is to plan ahead, book early-morning tours to Maya Bay, choose accommodation that matches your preferred atmosphere, and venture beyond the main village. Do that, and you will experience the Phi Phi Islands that have captivated travellers for generations, the real paradise beyond the postcards and the party scene.